Why the H3?


I've sold the Montero and miss it and getting back to overlanding I realized there were some lessons learned with that platform, and while I looked in ernest to find another Gen III, or even a clean 2.5, there's that law about nostalgia that says you can never go back. I'm also now without a garage, limiting my own wrenching and rattle-canning, and someone boosted my entire Craftsman mechanics set reducing me to scratch. In junior high I think we called this a do-over.

I thought I'd go the Jeep route: incredible aftermarket, proven platform, and huge user support systems. But, as we say in this area, you can't swing a gray-hair around without hitting one, the ubiquitous general purpose vehicle. Ditto the FJ. So I turned to the Hummer H3. I've secretly wanted one since they came out in 2005 and with its limited run and termination in 2010, the market hasn't quite figured out what to do with it.

I've made fun of Hummers since the H2 hit the market, and when the H3 came along I blew it off as GM's incarnation of Hummer culture on a Colorado platform. As I dug in and did the research I found out that wasn't such a bad thing. The biggest complaint is it's standard powerplant, an inline five that feels more Massey-Ferguson than GM Vortec. But even with one less cylinder it produces 242 hp and 242 lbf·ft versus Mitsubishi's 3.5 at 217 hp and 220 PS.

And while the Montero gave drivers and passengers an unparalleled view of the planet, the little Hummer feels like a deuced coupe, though an FJ is even harder to see out of. I wonder if the H3's driving position wouldn't feel so low had I not been conditioned by the excellent ergonomics and position of the Montero. However, the H3 holds it's own in performance and ability in all the ways I want to use it.

In January of 2014, I came across a 2007 base model in my favorite color, slate blue metallic, and I drove it home.


Planning it's purpose-build for a 3 trail-rating indigenous to our area, I'm looking to start with these modifications:
  • Replace its 265/75/R16s with 285/75R16s - Done
  • Mount a roof rack - Done
  • Collect and mount recovery gear - Done
  • Add an ARB Awning - Done
  • Engineer a separate electrical auxiliary circuit system - Done
  • Upgrade the power-train control module - Done
  • Add an N-Fab Pre-Runner grille guard and light bar - Done
  • Add supplemental lighting front and rear - Done
  • Upgrade suspension and level - Done
  • Add a winch, upgrade grille guard - Done
You can read about these modifications, upgrades and mechanical replacements by clicking the links on this blog.

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PCM of NC

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PCM Reprogram - July 19, 2014 Even though the H3's I5 produces a bit more power than the Montero's V6, it's sluggish at best with low RPM shifts with flat torque curves. I researched a number of mechanical mods to improve this (within my budget) and found that the most common - air intake upgrades, headers - yielded little change in performance and better fuel efficiency.  From various H3 user forums I heard about  PCM of North Carolina  and researched their service; they flash and reprogram the factory PCM (power-train control module) promising better throttle response and fuel efficiency, better shift points making better use of the torque curve, and more horsepower.  Sounds too good to be true, but having lived in North Carolina, it's been my experience to have never been disappointed with anything that comes from that state. So I made the order. I opted for their loaner program where they send a unit to replace the factory PCM while it's sent
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Rear Door Mod

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While the above modification worked well to keep essentials handy, it encroached too far into the cargo space, since the overland gear packs in filling the space completely while securing the load.  The Fiskars ax has been relocated across the driver-side cargo area storage compartment and the MOLLE panel has been moved up above the rear-door utility shelf.  Now the packs clear the load when the door is closed, yet they're still accessible. Rear Door Utility Shelf Mod  One of our favorite interior modifications on the Montero was the addition of a utility shelf that provided a place for food prep. The H3's rear door stows the jack and hardware assembly behind a removable plastic panel, a perfect place to adapt a shelf to the rear door access cover versus adding one like what was done on the Montero . Looking at clearances and how the panel is engineered to fit into the plastic surround I decided to use one-quarter inch oak veneer for the shelf and
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Garvin Roof Rack

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I considered two roof racks, a Gobi Stealth and the Garvin Sport roof rack, the latter being a third the the cost. While the Stealth would offer storage the length of the H3's greenhouse with a different construction, I'd be using a rack to stow recovery items and serve as a mount for an awning. While one of the laws of overlanding is the stuff you carry expands by 1.5 times to the available space, I won't be using the square footage of the Stealth and want to resist overloading the top of the rig. That's why I went with the Garvin. I researched to no avail to find how it mounts to an H3's existing rack system, so I thought I'd provide that illustration here. The front of the H3's rails have a plastic cap that clips into place, finishing the line of the rail to the front of the cab. This has a tab that when compressed and lifted, can be removed to access the rail. With this removed the cleats to which the feet of the Garvin rack mounts to can b
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