Garvin Roof Rack
While one of the laws of overlanding is the stuff you carry expands by 1.5 times to the available space, I won't be using the square footage of the Stealth and want to resist overloading the top of the rig.
That's why I went with the Garvin.
I researched to no avail to find how it mounts to an H3's existing rack system, so I thought I'd provide that illustration here.
The front of the H3's rails have a plastic cap that clips into place, finishing the line of the rail to the front of the cab. This has a tab that when compressed and lifted, can be removed to access the rail.
With this removed the cleats to which the feet of the Garvin rack mounts to can be inserted and positioned along the track.
The rail's channel depth makes it awkward to reach the cleats with the mounting bolts. I found that if I used one bolt without the washers to thread into and pull the cleat up into position, I could easily thread the opposite bolt with washers in place, and then replace the assisting bolt with its washers and complete the mount.
I left all of the hardware hand tightened on the feet to allow easier positioning and centering of the rack once all the feet were mounted into the rail.
The rack ships with the box in four pieces, front and rear ends and sides that need to be assembled, along with six rails that mount longitudinally.
The front of the rack is tapered and the upright stanchions are welded at diagonals to eliminate excessive wind noise caused by parallel supports.
I like the flexibility of configuring the rack to meet the needs of stowing recovery gear like a shovel, a Hi-Lift jack, TREDS, and Roto-Paxs. The channel created by the twin cross-members creates a solid mount for Grip Fists that I'll be using to stow the shovel and jack.
That's why I went with the Garvin.
I researched to no avail to find how it mounts to an H3's existing rack system, so I thought I'd provide that illustration here.
The front of the H3's rails have a plastic cap that clips into place, finishing the line of the rail to the front of the cab. This has a tab that when compressed and lifted, can be removed to access the rail.
With this removed the cleats to which the feet of the Garvin rack mounts to can be inserted and positioned along the track.
The rail's channel depth makes it awkward to reach the cleats with the mounting bolts. I found that if I used one bolt without the washers to thread into and pull the cleat up into position, I could easily thread the opposite bolt with washers in place, and then replace the assisting bolt with its washers and complete the mount.
I left all of the hardware hand tightened on the feet to allow easier positioning and centering of the rack once all the feet were mounted into the rail.
The rack ships with the box in four pieces, front and rear ends and sides that need to be assembled, along with six rails that mount longitudinally.
The front of the rack is tapered and the upright stanchions are welded at diagonals to eliminate excessive wind noise caused by parallel supports.
I like the flexibility of configuring the rack to meet the needs of stowing recovery gear like a shovel, a Hi-Lift jack, TREDS, and Roto-Paxs. The channel created by the twin cross-members creates a solid mount for Grip Fists that I'll be using to stow the shovel and jack.
